Shoe and method of making the same



Aug. 11, 1936. E 7 2,050,296

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Sept. 12, 1953 Q /NVENTUR I m wPatented Aug. 11, 1936 UNlTED STATES PATENT OFFICE Karl Engel, Lynn,Mass, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., acorporation of New Jersey Application September 12, 1933, Serial No.689,148

. 11 Claims. (Cl. 12142) This invention relates to shoes and the art ofshoemaking and is herein illustrated in its application to themanufacture of pre-welted shoes, that is, shoes in which the welt isattached to the upper prior to the lasting of the upper. As hereinillustrated, such shoes may be provided with a welt which extends aroundthe heel, as well as the forepart, of the shoe.

In pre-welted shoes heretofore manufactured,

the welt is united to the upper by a seam which passes also through thelining, an insole or slip sole being secured to the inner surface of theshoe bottom in order to cover the seam and thereby to promote thecomfort and improve the appearance of the shoe. The insole or slip soleis thin and tends to become misplaced as the shoe is worn, andoftenbecomes a source of discomfort to the wearer. Objects of thepresent invention are to provide a comfortable and attractive pre-weltedshoe without using a slip sole or insole while retaining all of theadvantages of pre-welted shoes heretofore manufactured and reducing thecost of manu- "facturing such shoes.

Features of the invention consist in the provision in'a pre-welted shoe,the welt of which is secured to the upper by fastenings extendingupwardly into the shoe substantially to the plane of the inner surfaceof the shoe bottom, of a lin- "ing arranged to overlie said fasteningsin order 1 to provide a shoe bottom, the foot-contacting surface ofwhich has no exposed fastenings. Preferably, and in accordance withanother feature of 'the invention, the lining which overlies saidfastenings is arranged to extend downwardly of the shoe bottom betweenthe edge face of a filler and the adjacent edge faces of the welt andupper, the margin of said lining extending inwardly of the" shoe betweenthe adjacent surfaces of the filler and an outsole. Preferably thelining is secured between the filler and the outsole by adhesive. Asherein illustrated, the filler occupies the entire space enclosed by theadjacent edge faces of the welt and upper. Thus, it will be seen, a shoebottom is provided the inner surface of which has no exposed stitchesand presents 'a smooth and unbroken surface to the foot without theemployment of a sock lining or innersole.

Such a shoe possesses a great advantage over pre welted shoes heretoforemanufactured in that the inner surface of the shoe bottom consistslargely of the grain surface of a leather filler the thickness of whichis equal to the combined thicknesses of the welt and upper and obviouslycan not be crumpled or otherwise injured in the course of wear, and,being entirely surrounded and retained in position by the welt, thefiller can not be misplaced but will be held in position as long as thewelt remains united to the outsole. The margin of the lining ispreferably held be- 5 tween the filler and the outsole, for example, bycement, thereby providing a bond between the upper lining and the shoebottom which tends to strengthen the shoe and to retain the shape of theshoe in the course of wear. Moreover, since edges of welt and lining areconcealed.

In one aspect thereof the invention comprises an improvement in methodsof making pre-welted shoes provided with a filler and with a liningwhich is not secured to the welted margin of the upper, which methodconsists in lasting the adjacent edge faces of the welt and upperagainst the edge face of the filler with the lining disposedtherebetween, lasting the margin of the lining to the filler, andsecuring said margin in lasted position, for example by adhesive.Preferably the filler is temporarily attached to the last bottom, thelocation of its edge face determining the extent to which the pre-weltedupper is wiped or pulled over the last bottom. The unattached margin ofthe lining presents no obstacle to the lasting of the shoe, the upperbeing assembled upon the last, as usual, and then wiped or pulled overthe last bottom. In working the upper over the last any wrinkles thatmay have formed in the lining may be removed by separately pulling theportion of the lining which extends beyond the upper.

The various features and aspects of the invention' will appear morefully from the following description when read in connection with theaccompanying drawing and will be pointed out in the appended claims. 40

In the drawing,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a pre-welted shoe embodying the featuresof the present invention, the toe portion of the shoe being broken awayand the heel end of the filler being drawn forwardly away from the shoebottom; and

Fig. 2 is a perspective View of the toe end of a pre-weltedshoe in thecourse of manufacture, the margin of the lining at one side of the shoebeing laid over upon and cemented to the filler while the margin aroundthe toe and at the opposite side of the shoe remains upstanding.

Referring to Fig. 1, the illustrated shoe comprises an upper l0 whichhas stitched to its upper edge a lining I2 which is formed to extendbeyond the overlasting margin of the upper. A welt I4 is secured to theoverlasting margin of the upper by stitches i6 which pass through thewelt and upper but do notextend through the lining. A filler l8,preferably consisting of a piece of grain leather with its grain surfaceuppermost, is formed and arranged to fill the space enclosed by the weltand the margin of the upper and is retained in position in the finishedshoe by the welt. The lining I2 is provided with a wide margin 24 which,in the illustrated shoe, extends from the heel breast line forwardly ofthe shoe to the point where the curvature about the toe end of the shoecommences, the width of said margin about the toe end of the shoe beingreduced in order to obviate the necessity of pinking or pleating themargin of the lining about the toe. The margin 24 of the lining isarranged between the filler I8 and the outsole 22 and secured inposition, for example, by cement applied to the lining and to the undersurface of the filler. If desired, cement may also be applied to theedge face of the filler and the adjacent edge faces of the welt andupper in order to secure the margin of the lining therebetween.Waterproof cement is preferable. Of the various waterproof cementspyroxylin cement has the advantage of providing a strong and enduringbond without impairing the flexibility of the shoe.

In the illustrated shoe, as a matter of convenience in manufacture, thelining about the heel end of the shoe is united to the upper and welt bythe seam l6 and the lining is cut off even with the edge of the upper. Aheel pad (not shown) conceals the stitching IE at the heel end of theshoe and prevents any discomfort which might be caused by the pressureof the heel of the wearer against the seam 96. If desired, however, thelining may be extended to form a margin at the heel end of the shoesimilar to the margin formed at the toe end of the shoe in which casethe seam [B would not extend through the lining at the heel end of theshoe and the heel pad could be eliminated.

The preferred method of shoes in accordance with the consists insecuring the filler l8 temporarily to the bottom of a last 26 (Fig. 2),providing the pre-welted upper ID with a lining 12 the marginal portionsof which at opposite sides of the shoe extend somewhat beyond the edgeof the upper. The upper may be lasted in any known manner, the margin 24of the lining preferably remaining upstanding during the lastingoperamaking pre-welted present invention tion. While the upper is heldin lasted position,

for example, by wipers 28 of a bed lasting, machine, adhesive, forexample, pyroxylin cement, is applied to the margin of the filler l8 andthe margin 24 of the lining is then laid over upon the margin of thefiller. If desired, however, adhesive may have been applied to thefiller before mounting the filler on the last bottom in which case thelasting of the upper is followed immediately by the overwiping of themargin of the lining upon the margin of the filler. A cemented outsoleis then laid upon the shoe bottom in any known manner and stitchedthereto. The pressure of the outsole against the shoe bottom in the solelaying operation serves to press the margin 24 of the lining against thefiller thereby producing a firm bond between the lining and the filler.

I-Iaving described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

shoe substantially to the 1. In a pre-welted shoe, the welt of which issecured to the upper by fastenings extending upwardly into the shoesubstantially to the plane of the inner surface of the shoe bottom, alining arranged to overlie said fastenings in order to provide a shoebottom the foot contacting surface of which has no exposed fastenings.

2. In a pre-welted shoe provided with a filler and having its weltsecured to the upper by fastenings extending upwardly into the shoesubstantially to the plane of the inner surface of the shoe bottom, alining arranged to overlie said fastenings and to extend downwardly ofthe shoe between the adjacent edge faces of the filler and the welt.

-3. In a pre-welted shoe provided with a filler and having its weltsecured to the upper by fastenings extending upwardly into the shoesubstantially to the plane of the inner surface of the shoe bottom, alining arranged to overlie said fastenings and to extend downwardly ofthe shoe between the adjacent edge faces of the filler and the welt andinwardly between the adjacent surfaces of the filler and the outsole.

4. In a pre-welted shoe provided with a filler and having its weltsecured to the upper by fastenings extending upwardly into the shoesubstantially to the plane of the inner surface of the shoe bottom, alining arranged to overlie said fastenings and to extend downwardly ofthe shoe between the adjacent faces of the welt and filler to which itis secured by adhesive.

5. In a pre-welted shoe provided with a filler and having its weltsecured to the upper by fastenings extending upwardly into the shoesubstantially to the plane of the inner surface of the shoe bottom, alining arranged to overlie said fastenings, to extend downwardly of theshoe between the adjacent faces of the filler and the welt, and tounderlie the margin of the filler to whichit is adhesively secured.

6. In a pre-welted shoe provided with a filler of smaller area than theinner surface of the shoe bottom and having its edge face arrangedsubstantially adjacent to the inner edge face of the welt, fasteningsfor securing the welt to the upper arranged to extend upwardly into theplane of the inner surface of the shoe bottom, and a lining arranged tooverlie the marginal portion of the inner surface of the shoe bottom inorder to cover said fastenings and arranged to extend downwardly of theshoe between the adjacent faces of the welt and filler.

7. That improvement in methods of making pre-welted shoes provided witha filler and with a lining which is not secured to the welted margin ofthe upper, which comprises lasting the adjacent edge faces of the weltand upper against the edge face of the filler with the lining disposedtherebetween, lasting the margin of the lining to the filler, andsecuring said margin in lasted position.

8. That improvement in methods of making pre-welted shoes provided witha filler of smaller area than the inner surface of the shoe bottom andwith a lining which extends beyond and is not secured to the weltedmargin of the upper, which comprises lasting the margins of the upperand lining over the marginal portion of the last bottom thereby bringingthe adjacent edge faces of the welt and upper against the edge face ofthe filler with the lining disposed therebetween and lasting the marginof the lining to the filler.

9. That improvement in methods of making pre-welted shoes provided witha lining which is not secured to the welted margin of the upper whichcomprises lasting the welted margin of the upper, together with thelining, over the margin of the last bottom and thereafter securing themargin of the lining to the shoe bottom.

10. That improvement in methods of making pre-welted shoes provided witha lining which extends beyond and is not secured to the welted margin ofthe upper which comprises lasting the welted margin of the upper,together with the lining, over and upon the margin of the last 3 bottomand thereafter securing the extended margin of the lining to a filler.

11. That improvement in methods of making pre-welted shoes provided witha lining which extends beyond and is not secured to the welted 5 marginof the upper which comprises lasting the welted margin of the upper,together with the lining, over and upon the margin of the last bottomand thereafter securing the extended margin of the lining between afiller and an 10 outsole.

KARL ENGEL.

